If you want your life to be a magnificent story, then begin by realizing that you are the author and everyday you have the opportunity to write a new page. ~Mark Houlahan
Monday, August 22, 2011
Bangkok....again!
It is hard to believe we are back in Bangkok and wrapping up our 3 weeks of travel. Seems like yesterday we were wondering through Chinatown in search of our first guesthouse with wide eyes and open mouths trying to take it all in. Now it has been 3 countries, 7 towns, a few villages, 10 hotels/guesthouses and a lifetime of experiences. Our last few days in Phnom Phen were relaxed. We have been moving at a pace that is impossible to maintain for 3 weeks straight and there are only so many temples and makets one can visit...that is clearly CK talking as I could go to markets and temples all day everyday and never get tired! We woke up early yesterday morning and enjoyed ourbreakfast by the pool before heading to the central market. I had told CK the day before that if we found a cricket vender I was going to eat one. As we shopped around, looking at all the same things we have seen at every market we have visited, we happened upon a a lady with 7 baskets of fried delicacies. She had massive cockroaches as well as itty bitty ones, crickets, scorpions the size of my palm, frogs fried whole, and huge grasshoppers. There we stood staring down at the baskets. Surprisingly, they did not look as gross as I had expected (a sure sign that we need to get back to the western world) but not so surprisingly I could notbring myself to eat one. I stood staring and repeating my mantra from the waterfall leap a few weeks ago... I will never stand in this spot again... but nothing. I guess there are just some experiences I am willing to miss!
We finished up at the market and headed out to meet our tuk tuk driver, Mr. Chum. He was one we picked up outside the hotel and not our trusty Rina who Lindsay recommended and who drove us all around PP for 3 days and even hired a boat for us to do a sunset crusie on the Tonle Sap River. Mr. Chum spoke English but I am not sure he understood what the words leaving his mouth meant. We agreed to head to a cafe on the way to the hotel so we could grab an iced coffee... material for another post iced coffee with sweet milk is YUMMY... on the way we turned down a street that was at a dead stand still. Motos, cars, tuk tuks everywhere with children of various sizes running in between. It only took a few moments to realise we were at a school. Most schools here run 2 sessions, one in the morning and one in the afternoon, in order to fit all the children into lessons. Mr. Chum slowly weaved his way through the traffic as we thought "this is a funny road to take to the cafe." It was within a few minutes of hectic congestion and toes being run over (not ours) that we realised that Mr. Chum had taken a detour to pick his daughter up from school! What can you do in these situations but laugh. We have been subjected to many transportation detours during our travels and in comparison this one was not so bad.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Kampot from CK's Prospective
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> A month or two before we left for our trip, our friend Vim from high school (who Michelle met in Atlanta) put us in touch with her friend who lives in Phnom Penh. Lindsey is originally from Buffalo but moved to PP a few months ago for an adventure and also to teach. After a few email exchanges, Lindsey convinced us that taking a weekend trip down south to Kampot would be a great relaxing break from our hectic travels...looking back now I think it was my favorite part of our trip yet.
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> Lindsey met us at our hotel in PP on Friday night and we all split the cost of a taxi to Kampot. I can't begin to describe how luxurious the ride was when compared to all of recent buses, tuk tuks, etc! The journey took about 2.5 hours consisting of the constant swerving to avoid cows, water buffalo, chickens, children and pigs which has strangely become normal. Street addresses don't really seem to exist in this part of the world, so as we approached Kampot we called the guesthouse and had the taxi driver speak directly to the staff. Directions consisted of turning right at a temple entrance with two lions, following a dirt path to a mosque, driving through the mosque (seriously we almost hit it!), around a few villages (at which point our taxi driver was laughing out loud at how ridiculous the journey was) until finally being met on the road by a dog, which led us the way for another 5 mins down a few more dirt paths to the guesthouse.
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> We arrived at the Ganesha "eco-resort" just after 9pm, just in time to meet with the eccentric German owner and receive our flashlights that would be our primary lighting for the weekend. Lindsey booked us a large Yurt to share, which is essentially a large tent - no bathroom, a/c, or any real walls in sight! The unexpected surprise is that unlike what was listed on their website, we did have electricity - well, enough to power a few lanterns and a single fan (which I made sure got a good workout). We fell asleep under our mosquito nets to the sounds of geckos calling just above our heads.
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> After breakfast the next morning, we noticed a sign saying that the hotel could arrange motorbike rentals for 5 USD a day...I also realized that I finally had an ally in Lindsey, who had also never ridden one but always wanted to. A quick chat with the owner and the next thing we knew three motorbikes were delivered to our yurt. This was followed by me bringing up the fact that none of us had ever even been on one before. No problem, the woman who ran the guesthouse kindly pointed out to me the accelerator, gears, brakes and (most importantly) the horn. After a few shaky initial goings, we were off tearing up the dirt paths.
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> We decided to ride up the the Secret Lake, which not so secretly was the most identifiable landmark on our unnecessarily large tourist map. However as we were riding on the main road through the town of Kampot, I suddenly realized I had no control over my bike - the back end was swerving all over the place. Realizing something was very wrong, I pulled over to the side of the road to find my back tire completely flat! Now I've had flat tires when driving cars before and it usually takes a minute or so to realize somethings not right, this is certainly not the case on a machine with only 2 wheels! However after a call back to the guesthouse and Lindsey somehow communicating with a few nice locals to get on the phone to tell them where we were, a new bike appeared and we were once again off to the lake.
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> The Secret Lake was actually built by the Khmer Rouge some time ago, I'm guessing to help with irrigation for the fields but not entirely sure. We drove around the lake before spotting a couple of thatched roof huts next to the water with hammocks. We stopped, grabbed a couple of "cocas" and laid in the hammocks for the next hour or two just enjoying the scenery. The lake was surrounded by durian plantations, mountains and fields. We thought about taking a dip in the lake (which was recommended) but I was put off by the fact that we'd be swimming alongside cows! We met a few fellow travellers by the lake and were told of a couple nice places around town to go swimming so we jumped back on our bikes and headed to a swimming pool near the town.
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> It was so nice to be able to drive ourselves around for a change and not be dependent on tuk tuk drivers or taxis. The best part by far was the children in the villages that we drove past. As soon as they'd see us they'd scream "HELLO" as loud as they possibly could and wave their hands. This is the extent of their English for the most part, but it was so cute and their smiles were amazing. This was the Cambodia we were looking for! We stopped all along the roads and talked with the locals and children - all were very friendly and happy to say hello, give us directions or simply give a smile. I think that single ride through town made the trip for both Jen and I, absolutely amazing!
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> We spent the rest of the day lounging by a pool before returning to our yurt to watch the sunset while swinging from hammocks again. Probably one of the best days of my life, and we decided to repeat it again the next day before heading back to PP by taxi.
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> Can't wait to share the pictures from this part of our trip - I only hope they capture how amazing this place is. I don't know if we'll ever make it back to this part of the world again, but if we do Kampot will be on top of my list of places to visit. Only next time I want to spend at least a week (if not month) just there, riding a motorbike around town and taking it all in.
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> Sent from my iPod
Where Old and New Collide
It is not unusual to see chickens running about on a side street or a person pushing a wooden hand cart while just around the corner is a shop selling the latest tvs or motos. Saffron clad monks sit in internet cafes or zip thru the streets on the back of a moto. This is the place where old east and new west collide in spectacular fashion. It is almost impossible to capture this phenomenon in photographs for in the very moment you see it it is gone. The chickens duck into open air buildings, the motos zoom past or giant beer trucks obstruct your view of the old man selling mangos and bananas from his wooden cart. I've said it once but it is still true; sensory overload is my current state. It would take years to absorb every sight. However, the smells seem to arrive all at once! As breathtaking and amazing these last few weeks have been I have come to realize that the amount of environmental destruction is equally breath taking. Deforestation, litter, pollution, chemical run off into the rivers; you name it and it is here. In one snap shot you have mountains, streams, and piles of ripe rubbish. People have no descreation in dumping their trash. They pile it next to homes, businesses, schools, hospitals, and they do not seem to mind the pungent smell as it bakes in the sun. They sit eating their meals and their kids run about the mess in barefeet. It is amazing and terrible all in the same moment. Despite this I am still in love with Cambodia and Laos. Countries where worlds collide and ancient culture clings to the people like red dust to the cheeks of the children playing along the roads. I know why people come to visit and never leave.
Friday, May 6, 2011
Life is so good...
We have decided to take the day off from sightseeing and crowds to enjoy the pool at the Blue Lime in Phnom Phen. So far we've had breakfast by the pool, coffee in a cabana, gone for a refreshing dip and listened to the monks chanting at the temple behind the hotel. This is a tough life...
We will be meeting up with Lindsey (friend of Vim's who lives in PP) tonight to head further south to Kampot. I think it will be a 2 or 3 hour ride but we are sharing a taxi so no bus! Woo hoo! However, all we have to do at this moment is wait until it is socially acceptable to order a cocktail... make mine a double!
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Road to No Where
I am starting to enjoy the bus rides. It is the little glimpses of life through the bus windows that take the sting out of spending most of the day on the bus. Watching as children play together in their front yards or in the middle of the street, seeing dogs running across the fields and cows grazing in the midst of thatched roof huts and road side vendors. As the sun set on todays drive I was disappointed to think that I would no longer be able to catch these glimpses. However, to my delight most of the huts were flickering an iridescent blue putting the evening routines of Cambodia families on display. It only took a few minutes to realise that my road side attractions were being lit up by televisions. How funny that they still cook there meals over open fires, bath on a concrete pump slab in the yard, farm for sustenance and yet they all have televisions. These are the glimpses that make it difficult for me to stop staring as we breeze by at 15 to 20 miles per hour on the bumpy, partially paved road. I know they see me staring and I know staring is rude but I can't stop so I smile and even wave... maybe that makes it better?
I have realised over the last few days that there are so many things that I want to write about from the last 2 weeks. However, despite my best efforts it is difficult to find the time and even more difficult to single finger peck away at the keyboard of my phone. I have started jotting down notes to help me remember everything when we are back home. The notes look a little something like this: thousands of naked babies, satellite dishes on wooden huts, pigs on a scooter, monks in the rain, Angor Wat kids and candy, school yards, little legs on giant bikes, crickets for dinner, bald Buddhist nuns... I think you get the point. Since touching down in Bangkok my brain has been on overdrive, trying to absorb as much as humanly possible and at the same time trying to put all of it into words that capture the details as precisely as possible. I don't want to forget a single moment on this road to no where via everywhere.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Dr Jones and Lara Croft take on Angkor Wat (with a guide of course)
We leave Ankgor Wat and eat breakfast... it is only 9 am! The rest if the day is spent in and out of temples. There are about 400 temples in various states of repair in the complex. Many are only traces of foundation or less. Again we only barely scratch the surface.
My favourite is probably the Ta Prohm or Tomb Raider temple. Not because of the movie but because you can see the power of mother nature. 400 year old trees have slowly but surely undone most of man's work for the 12th century. The tree roots look like magnificent works of art and the bark is silver in the sunlight. I could spend an entire day here and not see it all. We can only hope some of our pictures do it justice!
Today we are heading to Banteay Srei or The Citadel of Women. No guide, just the intrepid travellers and our dependable tuk tuk driver, Mr Sith!
Pictures: Angkor Wat at sunrise, CK and Mr Khem, and The Bayon faces.
Monday, May 2, 2011
Holiday in Cambodia
Dinner was homemade Pat Thai and Paneng chicken at our guesthouse. Tomorrow we meet our Wat guide and driver at 5 am to catch sunrise and beat the heat and crowds! Until tomorrow.
Sunset at Bakeng Hill
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| The beginning of the sunset. Look at all the tourists!!! |
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| Sunset at Bakeng Hill in Angkor Wat Temple Complex |
Saturday, April 30, 2011
A Royal Wedding in Laos
More on this later... We are waiting on our bus and trying to book a guest house in Vientiane and only have one computer!
Friday, April 29, 2011
The Long and Winding Road
Just a few minutes ride through the small town was enough to make us realise we were not in Luang Prabang anymore. We passed more westerners and backpackers than we did locals. All the restaurants serve 'happy' pizza, shakes, etc and are full of twenty-something stoners watching endless loop episodes of Friends. I couldn't help but think why would you travel halfway around the world to sit in a shack, get high and watch Friends... I think I am officially getting old! The town itself is rather dirty and lacks the atmosphere that LB offered around every unsuspecting corner. Gone are the little old ladies sweeping the streets in front of their homes with grass brooms, gone are the monks pattering down the street at dawn in their bare feet, gone is the silence as the sun sets... replaced by prostitutes soliciting their next marks, hippies with dreadlocks and Japanese tourists singing very (very!) bad karaoke very (very!) loudly!
So with all that being said this is still a beautiful place. The mountains are amazing and riddled with caves. The Nam Song flows gently through the middle of VV and is full of life. We watched this morning as a lady with her coolie hat and fishing gear waded through the water for her days catch. The clouds were low and the sun just barely skimmed out. It was one of the most breathe taking sites. We also took a tuk tuk about 7km out of town to a little village and climbed up a rock wall (maybe I am exaggerating but it was steep) to explore a massive cave with a reclining Buddha. This posture means that Buddha is about to enter Nirvana. The cave had a second opening that allowed sunlight to pour through and directly onto the Buddha. While we were inside a storm passed through and chased off most of the other tourists so when we came down to the blue lagoon outside the cave area it was empty. CK wasted no time jumping in for a quick, refreshing dip. Just as we made it back to the guest house another storm came through... a perfect opportunity for a nap!
On a side note to all this... the moment we dreaded has arrived. I am not feeling well. Likely just a case of traveller's tummy but not very pleasent to say the least. I survived the 8 hour bus ride but spent most of last night in the room and then made a trip to the local hospital this morning. In any other place I would just let nature take it's course but considering most loos here are turkish style I went to the doctor... Actually, I just walked up to a window and talked to a guy in a white coat. There were some rather entertaining hand gestures and after about 3 minutes I was hand a few different meds. The most important being Ciproflox an antibiotic that should kill what ever bug has taken up residence in my tum tum! Here's to a happy bus ride tomorrow as we head further south to the capital Vientiene!
Thursday, April 28, 2011
We've been blessed by a Buddhist nun...
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Florida Girl takes on Laos Waterfall
The trek was through a few villages about 20 km out of Luang Prabang. It felt very weird to be walking through peoples yards and looking into their homes. However, the guide explained that the Laos people don't mind. Firstly, the tour company we used gives a portion of the money to the village and secondly, this is the only way these people get to see the world... through the faces and languages of the people who visit. When we first arrived there was a group of teenage aged youth sitting outside listening to Mary J Blige! I guess the saying "Same Same" applies here as well! The houses were mainly grass and bamboo with the occasional cinder block building... and by building I mean something the size of a medium shed big enough for a riding lawn mower, a few bikes and other bits. The traditional houses sat up on stilts about 4 to 6 feet off the ground. Apparently, these people used to live in the low lands and as they moved higher into the hills they continued to build the same way despite the absence of flooding. According to our guide, they are not Buddhist because they have too many mouths to feed (5 to 15 children per family) and because they need their sons to work the fields so don't want to send them away to be monks! They believe in 3 spirits: the House or Guardian Spirit, the Field Spirit and the Mountain spirit. They make offerings to the spirit and use a shaman if things get too tricky!
Once through the villages we headed into the hills and jungle. I have been surprised the entire week here at the butterflies. They are everywhere and not just a single variety... I have seen about 15 or 20 different ones! Throughout the walk little white ones would be fluttering ahead in the path... very magical! It was not a difficult trek but it was hot and rather humid... There was also about an hour of walking through the farmland with no shade which was probably the worst bit. We stopped around noon in a clearing for a traditional Laos lunch... I am unsure what I was eating but had little choice but to dig in! The guide said it was pork, vegetables and an omelet as well as a tomato and cilantro salad all eaten with your fingers and balls of sticky rice. Thank the Guardian Spirit for hand sanitizer!!!
Post lunch we explored a cave with hidden Buddhas (and bats!) and then carried on for another hour or so through the jungle to the waterfall!!! We arrived to the top and were able to wade out to the very middle to look down and take pictures... relax everyone, there was a railing and we were safe ;-) the water was cool and refreshing on our tired feet. However, the leach in my shoes after the refreshing water was not so nice!
Once down at the bottom we were able to take in the full magnitude of the falls. It has 5 cascades and ends in limestone pools that are pale blue. Further down we were able to swim... and here is the part you have all been waiting for... I jumped from a smaller water fall into the pool below! It was about 15 feet and my knees were knocking like you wouldn't believe. Chris didn't have his swim suit (or shorts for that matter) so I was left to my own. I stood at the top and thought 'I will never stand here in this spot with this opportunity again' and before the last word left my mind I jumped! It was great! I think that thought will be the mantra for the rest of the trip and I plan to live every moment!!!
This morning is a bit rainy so we are going to head to an English language centre for a drop conversation and then off for a traditional Laos massage. And if the sun comes out we will go to the pool this afternoon. I think we earned our R and R yesterday! Tomorrow will be decided later!
I almost forgot that we enjoyed an amazing Laos meal last night... We ate green soup (I think it was most Mekong seaweed.. seriously it really was!), stuffed lemongrass, water buffalo, Laos sausage, Mekong fish in banana leaf and of course sticky rice. Yummy!!!
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Monday, April 25, 2011
Wats, River and Mountains... Oh My!!
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| The Mekong River |
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| Florida Girl and Boy and the Mekong River |
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| CK on top of Mt Phousi |












